David Beckham and Johnny Depp are digging deep in their pockets to find the time, as old school pock

Often a heirloom piece passed down through generations, the pocket watch is again becoming a hot item on the timepiece market, especially in East Asia.

How has this beloved timepiece claimed the attention of horologists once more? Chinese buyers, in particular, are most bewitched, and this is rooted in a history filled with fascination.

Which luxury watches are K-pop stars from BTS, EXO and Blackpink wearing?

“The Chinese market has always been fascinated by time, along with a curiosity and love of items that have scholarship, resulting in the clamour for pocket watches,” says Daryn Schnipper, chairman of Sotheby’s international watch division. She cites an exhibition of large Qing-dynasty SingSong clocks that are on display at the Palace Museum in Beijing’s Forbidden City as testament to this fascination. Last year’s opening of the Gallery of Clocks in the same museum showcases the interest in clocks.

“There is strong interest in pieces with wonderfully done enamel, diamonds, pearls and automations – movements so that you can tell right away a timepiece is more than just a watch,” he adds.

What are the most expensive watches you can buy online?

The forefather of wearable tech, pocket watches were conceived in the 16th century, as one of the first timekeeping devices that could be owned by the public. Their predecessors were first worn as necklaces because of their size, before they were kept in pockets.

The following century saw cases slim down and in the 18th century they were adorned by precious gems and jewels, which added to the price. Pocket watches were more common by the 19th century, as timekeeping became more important for trade and commerce. There have been watchmakers that share an affinity with the craft of pocket watches.

In 1848, Swiss brand Omega began producing pocket watches, using a traditional method that allowed the workshop to create one timepiece at a time. Omega received a start in production since its founder, Louis Brandt, opened a workshop in the hopes of producing the world’s most accurate watches. On its journey, the watchmaker created the revolutionary movement that the Brandt brand would call the 19-ligne Omega calibre in 1894. This innovation also paved the way for their wristwatch production. “[Pocket watches] are an emblem of watchmaking tradition and craftsmanship and each piece brings a little part of history to life,” an Omega official says.

“There is also emotion with these pocket watches. They were owned by people who depended on their precision, whether for their social life or for work, such as [working] on the railways. So there is an important story that comes with each one, and their rarity and beauty also makes them especially popular with collectors.”

Will Meghan or Kate ever get Princess Di’s Cartier watches?

Auction house Sotheby’s reported a record US$109 million in sales of watches alone in 2019. Pocket watches were the highlight of Sotheby’s Masterworks of Time event.

As sales of pocket watches gained momentum in auctions, Schnipper noticed a growing trend of Asian collectors buying technical pieces by lesser-known makers.

Last year also saw a world-record US$4.6 million paid for a piece by an independent watchmaker: George Daniels’ Space Traveller I in July.

Sotheby’s will host another Masterworks of Time auction in New York on June 3, featuring a curated collection.

“The whole collection has many great surprises and price points ranging from US$1,000 to US$500,000,” Schnipper says. “The sale features a selection of exceptional pieces from the iconic watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet.”

When collectors and buyers are after a pocket watch, they have different specifications than when they are shopping for wristwatches. There are two types of pocket watches: open face and hunter case, which comes with an enclosure. Factors to consider are the age of the watch, its maker, its condition, and if it can do something beyond tell the time.

In inspecting the condition of an enamel pocket watch, ensure that the enamel is in reasonable condition and if it has been restored how that was achieved.

“Provenance plays an important role,” Schnipper says.

These celebs are mad for motorsports watches – should you be, too?

Sotheby’s sold a pocket watch that former British prime minister Winston Churchill had once owned for £485,000 (HK$4.64 million) in 2015. The watch had been given to Churchill at the end of the second world war.

Whether for collecting or an investment, old-fashioned pocket watches have come back as a fashion statement and a valuable way to tell time.

Want more stories like this? Sign up here. Follow STYLE on Facebook, Instagram, YouTube and Twitter .

Help us understand what you are interested in so that we can improve SCMP and provide a better experience for you. We would like to invite you to take this five-minute survey on how you engage with SCMP and the news.

ncG1vNJzZmivp6x7tK%2FMqWWcp51kuqKzwLOgp52jZMC1xcueZrCZpJi1pr%2BOmqmtoZOhsnB%2Fj3FtamlpZLGiwsidZJudk6C1ormMmqWdZZqkta%2B62GabnqigYq6zsYydoKCfmaO0brDEnqdmrJiatrM%3D